in italiano

What is an Agriturismo Part 2: Countryside accommodation in Italy

What is an Agriturismo Part 2

Last month we started talking about the Agriturismo (farm holidays, or country-inn), a special kind of rural welcoming which was only born about ten years ago, but which was rapidly able to give its considerable contribution in terms of recovery, revaluation and development of many rural Italian and, particularly, Tuscan areas.

The commitment and the perseverance of many people, who were open to believe in something which initially offered not too many hopes and who rather often met the distrust of friends and local administrators, were essential and decisive. That is why the 1985 legislation about the farm holidays has been then warmly welcomed, in that it practically meant a guarantee for the tourists and a special sign of attention and of far-sighted behavior of our legislators.

Thanks to comments from the many "farm tourists" I would meet in the fololowing years - I would like to tell you about their impressions. First of all, it must be said that the holiday in the country is not only practiced by German tourists: it can be said, rather, that they have always given a special attention to the Italian culture and landscape, as well as the relatively short distance of their country from Italy has favored their high presence in our land, so that they "made the path" for other tourists, but they still today represent a high percentage of the current total number of foreign visitors in our territories.

On the other hand, looking through history, numerous people, living even further afield have been fascinated by the colors and the food of our countryside. Overseas people, who have read the newsletter, will remember what the poet and writer Edith Wharton said in her Italian Backgrounds (New York, 1862 - Saint-Brice [France], 1937)a hundred years ago:

The detail is one of the chief charms of the mid-Italian (to mean: Tuscan) landscape. It has none of the purposeless prodigality, the extravagant climaxes of what is called fine scenery; nowhere is there any obvious largesse to the eye; but the very reticence of its delicately moulded lines, its seeming disdain of facile effects, almost give it the quality of a work of art, make it appear the crowning production of centuries of plastic expression...". Edith Wharton The Age of Innocence

She clearly knew that less known places, but equally rich in history, culture and art, were well worth a stop and examination in depth. She invited other men of letters, colleagues of hers, to visit not only famous cities like Rome and Florence, but to specially chosen places to provide a "parentheses of travel", which were often ignored or disregarded by most of the contemporary writers of her time. I like imaging her in the present time. Probably, we would find her in an agriturismo, sitting under the fresh shade of a mulberry tree in the summer time, while arranging the sheets of a new novel.

Just to give you an idea of the various nationalities of the guests at the agriturismos, I can tell you that during the last four years I met people from Iceland, New Zealand, Cuba, Israel, California, and Canada, not to mention the Italians who are more and more, thanks to the possibilities in each region in Italy and who are even surprised, sometimes by the discovery of an Italy that is "still the same but always different".

Agriturismo's usually have limited capacity, an intentional limited number of beds, so that the relationship between the host and the guests often ends up resembling a family atmosphere; once the ice is broken. At the beginning it almost always happens that the guests, amongst a visit to the country town, a nearby medieval village or an excursion to the seaside, participate in olive picking or in the grape harvest, or working in the fields, or taking care of the animals. Everything with no engagement or hard work; if even the language could appear to be an insurmountable difficulty, it often happens, instead, to find ourselves all together after dinner, speaking or making gestures to understand each other, but anyway together sharing the pleasure of a glass of vinsanto - the most famous Tuscan aromatic wine and a tray of cantuccini crunchy almond biscuits.

Almost always, the apartments or guestrooms have been made from carefully restored farm buildings and equipped with every comfort. Even so they maintain, both inside and out, the fascination of the places where people have lived, and a welcoming atmosphere of the farmer's world, where everything has been purposely created for its inhabitant. These houses are usually built on the top of a hill, exposed to the sun so that cold and dampness doesn't enter the house. The walls are thick to maintain coolness in the summer and warmth in winter. Brick or stone posts and arches give to the environment a sober but refined effect.

Many tourists have often underlined the fact that Tuscany and the Italian countryside in general seems to be embroidered by a myriad of small or larger villages, castles and streets, which make the landscape a soft, winding, panoramic one, through which one easily move via the good highways. Whenever you are, in Tuscany or in other parts of Italy, any road you take, you may be sure to see somthing unique to Italy within the 15 minutes, and that 'something' will have Etruscan of medieval walls, or a Romanesque or baroque church, or frescos or noble palaces. Or you'll find shops and restaurants with dishes that include saffron, or fresh fish, Modena vinegar or cave-seasoned-cheeses, traditional costumes, ancient trades and village festivals that celebrate the folklore of the area. Whenever we are, or you are, it will be well worth a stop...

For a definitive collection of agriturismos or farm holidays for Italy vacation rental check www.agriturismo.net

San Miniato 76 Weekly Price: Min. € 140,00 Max. € 630,00 Number of Beds: 30

Bagni di Lucca 2033 Weekly Price: Min. € 300,00 Max. € 500,00 Number of Beds: 4

Cortona 1204 Weekly Price: Min. € 1.800,00 Max. € 2.200,00 Number of Beds: 10

Castiglioncello 1943 Weekly Price: Min. € 250,00 Max. € 850,00 Number of Beds: 5